My memories of “local cuisine” is often coloured by mother’s attempt at bobotie; made with that orange box “curry powder” that contained more turmeric than actual curry.  Her milktart and vetkoek were delicious but unfortunately she never attempted koeksisters, leading me to lament that I had a “deprived childhood”.  Perspective changes with age, but these classic mostly Malay-inspired dishes are part and parcel of our South African food heritage, as local as braaivleis and putupap.  We all have our favourites and our pet hates, we grew up on this food and we all lay claim that so-and-so makes the best traditional dish…

It was thus with a small amount of trepidation that we accepted the ever-stylish Nicolette Waterford’s kind invitation to join her at Blaauwklippen Wine Estate latest restaurant aptly named “Cape Kitchen”.  We were in for quite a surprise: Executive Chef Hanelé Rabè has remodelled those time-old classics that we love and steered them firmly into the 21st century.

Curried mussel soup (R50) is served with a dainty vetkoek on the side while a smoked snoek fish cake stands proudly next to green mango chutney (R50).  The vetkoek was not oily (a pet hate) and the mussel soup had that just-right curry flavour; testament to a Chef who knows how to balance flavours.  The SA ostrich industry are being supported with a starter salad of smoked ostrich and rocket beautifully complimented by pineapple crisps, peppadews and masala spiced macadamia nuts (at R70 the most expensive starter).

The Cape Kitchen offers a variety of Mains priced from R90 to R120; from venison Wellington with onion and garlic slaphakskeentjies and pampoenpoffertjies on the side to the contemporary styled vegetarian macadamia nut bobotie with basmati rice, warm cucumber salad and sambal.  This dish deserves a special mention, as The Navigator ordered and scoffed it without even offering me a taste!  The bobotie was baked in a rooti, giving it a puff pastry texture while the macadamia nuts gave extra crunch to the dish.  The standard chicken pie of your grandmother has been zooted up and evolved into a crispy duck pie served with grilled duck breast and vegetables.

The pan fried line fish (Kob, on the day we tasted it) on carrot purée with a biltong nage (a fancy name for a fancy sauce) was the most beautiful dish (R115)!  It looked good and tasted even better – the biltong nage was a clever departure from heavier sauces that could kill the taste of the fish.

Reading the dessert menu is where we I got all misty-eyed; with Cape Brandy pudding with gooseberry confit and almond ice cream (R50) and melktert cheesecake served with a koeksister and butternut-orange sorbet(R45)…we’ve sure come a long way on the food evolution trek!

Cape Kitchen at Blaauwklippen is open for dinner from 19 October 2011, Wednesdays to Fridays from 7pm; lunch only for groups and by special arrangement.

www.blaauwklippen.co.za

021 – 880 0133