Music to more than just your ears at Overture
May 03
Food and Wine, Restaurants Annandale Road, Bertus Basson, Chenin Blanc, Cinsaut, Collaboration, Craig Cormack, Die Worsrol, Hidden Valley, Louis Nel, Morgenster, Neil Ellis Wines, Overture, Sofia's, Souffle, Stellenbosch, sweetbreads, The Dude, Vergelegen, Warwick Wine Estate No Comments
Long and winding roads often lead you to a place where you get stuck in the mud high up a mountain side, with half a bottle of stale water and some old pieces of ages-old Fritos lounging in the car since the last road trip. Take the T4 route off the Annandale Road and travel up, around a few blind curves and continue until you reach the very top of the road and you reach an oasis of luxury and abundant food and wine fit for the King of Persia…that is when you know you’ve reached Overture.
Louis Nel invited us to enjoy the wines he is producing in collaboration with Bertus Basson (chef and patron at Overture) and Craig Cormack (of Sofia’s at Morgenster) at Overture; a Chenin Blanc and a Cinsaut, aptly called “Collaboration”.
Louis was born in Paarl, and having been surrounded by vineyards his whole life, made winemaking as a career choice quite obvious. He studied winemaking at the University of Stellenbosch, worked harvests in France and the USA, came home and honed his skills at Vergelegen, Neil Ellis, Warwick and Hidden Valley before embarking on his own winemaking adventures.
Both wines produced under the Collaboration range is made from Bottelary grapes and both are from the 2011 vintage. This Chenin, unlike its predecessor, is unoaked. Extended lees contact followed the natural ferment, resulting in amazing textures accompanying the tropical fruit palate. Its fresh as you’d expect from a young Chenin, but the acidity is tempered by the aforementioned texture and it is a perfect accompaniment for Bertus’s food.
The Cinsaut is medium bodied and we drank it chilled. The wine’s fruit profile showed bright red fruit, the tannins are velvety and the acidity fresh. We paired it with both fish and red meat and it worked beautifully with both. The Cinsaut is totally unoaked and is very accessible, but is by no means a tutti fruity number. This is a serious wine and perfect for food, and will hopefully play its part in the renaissance of this underrated cultivar.
Both wines are available in the retail trade, both go for roughly R99 and you can find them at Manuka, Wine @ the Mill and The Vineyard Connection.
I cannot tell you about the food without first talking about the chef: Bertus Basson. He reminds me a bit of “The Dude”, after meeting him I was expecting him to mosey up to the table sipping a white russian, complaining that his rug was stolen…No such laid back attitude exists when he starts talking about food; his passion and enjoyment of his profession is clear.
Plate upon plate appeared before us, by way of seamless, non-intrusive service, our glasses were filled with the delicious Collaboration wines – it is always said that the best service is the service you don’t notice; the best waiter the one you never hear…they’re all employed at Overture!
What struck me about every dish was that the ingredients were left to speak for themselves; they weren’t overworked and wrestled to the plate and made to stand to attention. I never counted more than 7 obvious ingredients on the plate, showcasing the actual food. This is not to say that there is not some pure genius at display on your plate: sweetbreads coaxed into just-right crispiness, soufflé rising to perfect fluffiness and fish with crispy top hat and juicy interior.
After 7 courses, we were pleasantly sated but not unable to move; the food was light and very, very good.
The guys at Overture “live and die by the saying: perfection is often strived for but never achieved.” We came pretty close to that strived-for perfection during our visit: the view, the food, the restaurant interior and the wine: all brought together by the creative genius behind it all. This is a man who believes in what he is doing and he does it without fanfare, embarking on new food adventures regularly (check out www.dieworsrol.co.za).
Leaving Overture down that long, windy road back to reality, occasionally gazing at the incredible view, I couldn’t help but think we’ve just experienced something very special: when all your senses are in harmony, all brilliantly catered to by 2 guys doing what they love without fuss or fanfare. This was indeed an introduction to a new relationship, an overture: introducing us to a larger piece of music…to the senses.








































































































Recent Comments